Comparing a $100,000 3D Printer to a $330 home 3D printer
Comparing a $100,000 3D Printer to a $330 home 3D printer
AD: Listen to The White Vault while you paint here or on Spotify: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuV6uBmrA-Q&list=PL1gPi0QoPtozs_t9U4abx-h2uKXyfaWg&index=1
This past weeks we decided to test print some minis on the Anycubic Photo M5s pro, Phrozen mini 8ks and Heygears Ultra Reflex printer and compare that to master print copies from the digital wax laser 3d printer DWS029 and Stratasys polyjet J55.
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Massive thanks to Eme Molero for the 3d Print from the DWS: https://www.instagram.com/eme_molero/
And protech for their super cool transparent print on the Polyjet: https://www.protech.se/
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Videos edited by Maxime Dader & Viktor Westermark
Can you test a printer between the cheap and super expensive? Is there a $1000 or $1200 printer that comes close to the $65000?
Dude the White Vault is fantastic! I listened to the whole thing over the summer 2022 while painting my Night Haunt, and it is my no. 1 favorite podcast of all time! Did not expect it to pop up!
Should have tested the Elegoo s4 ultra as well.
someone just got fired at Anycubic
This isn’t fair u guys just want me to spend all my hard earned money on a sick 3-D printer which I really really want to do. Thanks for the updated info. U guys are the best.
Oh my goodness! You’re sponsored by the White Vault!! That’s amazing! I’ve been listening since day 1! That’s amazing!
Entertaining video but you are basically comparing 3 different types of printers. Sorry, but have all models printed externally by a 3d printing company or by experts and then compare them. Your result will be distorted by your non-optimised parameters with the LCD printers.
Honestly a terrible comparison video. Used different resins for each printer, didn’t say if settings were kept consistent (most importantly layer height) , didn’t give any info like how long each print took, xy resolution, if the high end printers had any special features or what technology used in them actually makes them so expensive. Just a shockingly poorly thought out video.
Anycubic M5 S may be the worst in the bunch but not hopeless.
The problem with Anycubic M5 is mostly resin-related. Anycubic resin-related, to be precise.
I was not able to get good results with Anycubic ABS-lke 2 grey – prints came blurred on one side with horrific loss of details, as if they were severely overexposed and reducing exposure time leads to failed prints.
Same models, same slicer (Lychee free), same settings using flesh colored ABS-like resin from Fungoo (past expiry date and with some black resin mixed to it by mistake) produced almost perfect result.
The problem with Anycubic lately is they give you a "default premade" exposure test… that only works for 0.05 layer size, so you need to custom make your own REFR for smaller layers (the machine should be able to go to 0.02… I have the M5 and it goes to 0.03 no problem), the problem is to know precisely the order and location of each part of the REFR.
Also, how you place the model in the machine changes a lot of the final result. In my experience, Anycubic’s post-sale is not the best company (but considering is one of the few brands with cheap, quality printers able to test up to 8 times per print, I think it’s a good compromise with the aftersales support).
I had a Photon S prior to this one, and using the same resin the M5 has given me superior detail in the same layer height, and faster (not that I mind that part, frankly, but less exposure time means more life for the screen after all).
Its kinda discouraging for any potential buyer of resin printers hoping superior quality. Not mentioning the post printing process looks annoying.
I own 2 anycubic printers and neither of them have ever given me a print that looks like that
just gunna ignore an entire wrist missing from the dwarf?
Interesting to see the comparison with the ultra high end printers and a useful video for those home users new to the 3D Printer world and looking to use the manufacturers recommended resins and settings. As ever, the usual bunch of 3d printing "experts"/bores/nerds (delete as appropriate) are always going to rant about their enormous expertise and favourite printers – your politeness towards those is impressive 🤣
what I see is that you used different resins on printers that were not calibrated. Typically more expensive printers just come with extra features, easy of use, and faster print times. The quality doesn’t change that much. If you want an actually comparison, use the same resin on all the printers and use the cones of calibration to make sure they are all calibrated. Then redo these prints. I bet you will find that these print qualities will look much closer to each other.
Difference between mono and phrosen is 100% settings. Something is very, VERY wrong with your layer time and thickness on anycubic.
easy phrozen dub
WOO HOO – Got a bite chunked out of my name!!! Great work as always team, super entertaining and informative vids. Keep them coming!
next time you use a resin printer do some cones of calibration tests with your resin and dial your settings in more. the manufacturer can only give you a ballpark typically higher to prevent failures.
Not sure how/why your photon printed so bad, but yeah thats not right at all…., Ive never had a print look anywhere close to that bad on my Anycubic printer. Something is massively wrong with the printer or the settings.
I have an older, significantly cheaper anycubic printer, and I consistently get much better results than what you showed. That is a resin/settings issue.
"We didn’t optimise settings and used their resins, so let’s compare the printers"
I mean… no, that’s not quite how it works. If you’re printing for detail, you have to put time into getting good settings. Those settings will vary by resin, by product, by machine. Ie. My Mars 3 will print a little different to yours. Close, but not exactly the same. I get you went with the settings from the manufacturer, but that’s not a true comparison of the printers.
Printer resolution is also reaching the point of irrelevancy, and everyone likes to say "16k is the future!!!" but the reality is light dispersion matters more.
You also didn’t mention a big flaw of the heygears; you use their resin, their settings (given you can’t change much), you’re tired into their ecosystem. If you want to use a flexible resin so you can drop minis without damage, tough luck, you have their resins only.
I get you have to make a video per week, but this one is pretty pointless.
The texture is matt because it’s overexexpose.
No matter if it’s a cheap or an expensive printer, if it’s overexposed it will look like trash and have almost bo details.
I’ve been using a photon m5 for a year and I’m getting good results.
There is so many parameters in a 3D printer, you can’t just go blind and expect it to work.
did you slice all of the models using the same slicing software?
if not then you’re introducing another variable into the testing which could change the results.
a lot of the slicers that come with the printers are garbage (anycubic photon workshop for example is trash, especially if you’re using it’s auto support).
if I was testing a lot of different printers I would slice the exact same model with the exact same supports using something like lychee slicer. that way you would know the only variable is the printer itself (and to an extent the printer profile that the manufacturers provide to lychees team).
I have a few 3d printers from various manufacturers and anything sliced with for example photon workshop on my anycubic machine is usually garbage compared to the same model sliced in lychee.
lychee just has way more advanced support and anti aliasing algorithms. (and no doubt chitubox is the same)
🖌🎨 Only TWO DAYS LEFT to grab the Squidmar 2024 Infinity Airbrush!🎨🖌
and while you’re at it, grab yourself some paint sets and the Squidmar Wet Palette:
https://harderairbrush.com/pages/squidmar-release-2024-inf
The best quality still appears to be the plastic (HIPS) figures from the paint sets – by FAR😉 – so personally I would rather buy that than mess around with (toxic)resin!
I want too learn how too paint like you I have a old world zombie dragon ill send too you it is my one mini that I loved as a kid
100k for a 3d Printer? With that price it should come with infinite resin and a 5 minute print time max
The White Vault is so gooooood"!
White Vault is absolutely amazing. The same people partake in Dark Dice if fantasy themed is more your stick – just as great.
no 3d printer can print cookie rations, sorry lukas
So, the 330 home printer is better, for what I see in these photos and videos. I don’t care about what you say if my eyes clearly tell me that the 330 one is better
@squidmarMiniatures I bought the paint sets but one of the paints are leaking. Contacted HarderandSteenback, but no reply 🙁
What’s up with the weird opening shot? You guys always throw yourselves towards the camera suddenly.
your asking for a industrial grade printer thats not meant for miniatures to make a miniature ….. you answered your own question
You should also include the Uniformation printers in here
I suspect layer height was not consistent between resin printers
That first mini from the Mono M5S is definitely VERY overexposed. What were the settings you used on that? Because I can get WAY better details than that on my three and a half years old Photon Mono and that thing has a 2K screen… You might want to try that one again after you’ve tested out some more setting, because this is just not a good representation of what that printer can actually deliver.
It is not printer issues, all printers you have presented in video are able to produce top notch prints. Setting made by producent are usually far from good. Phrozen resin Vs Anycubic resin is also different league, Anycubic have very bad resins. In general enterteing video, but you are far away from truth in term of what those machines are capable of.
I’d be up for painting the poorest quality print from this
hmm I think I recognize that dragon head – is that the work of my old friend Jericoz?
Or am I wrong?
I could really go for some poke
id agree Frodo with the ring on would be the best mini 😀
Just bought the paint set, looking forward to giving them a try, and see how they compare with the array of Citadel paints I have! much cheaper too for the amount you get so thank you for that!
Hey guys, great video, bit I think you should have calibrated the printers (1h max) and set st least the same layer hight.
Also, I do think that the expensive printers aren’t calibrated for fine details too.
Did they cure them? Because they’re complaining about soft miniatures.
100k printer, and it’s shit!!
When Squidmar goes full Swedish Chef and can’t say "white"😂
The M5S Pro results are painful. Clearly no AA enabled, way overexposed, and the glossy finish of the resin all are working against you here. This printer if you take the 30 minutes to run the inbuilt calibration feature can put out some of the most crispiest and flawless prints you’ve ever seen, as its XY resolution is sub 25 microns same as the Phrozen printer you’ve got there. If this were my video I’d have run the same resin in each printer, and taken the time to calibrate the exposure for each. Sadly I don’t have access to all these machines, so I’d just finish by saying I hope you make this video again but with the appropriate methodology.
Seems slightly biased.